Shirt Tales


Size Matters


Regardless of the designer you purchase, how much you spend, what color the item is or how much you love it; if it doesn’t fit properly, you are wasting your money.

The most common offense I see is the tent shirt. Possibly in an attempt to hide a stomach that is not the same size it was when they were younger, men purchase a shirt that is too large for them. Look around you on the street. You will see it everywhere. Their shirts are untucked and ballooning around them with sleeves that are often too long and are therefore in a rolled-up position. We all know what is under that shirt. Gentlemen, you are not fooling anyone!

Instead of letting your shirt puff out around you like a parachute, purchase one that actually fits. I promise you will look better as a result. 

If you really want a great shirt, have one custom made. If not, there are several designers I suggest you purchase off the rack. While costing a little money, tailoring an off the rack shirt may be your best option.  Areas that might need attention include your sleeves, chest and waist.


How Should My Shirt Fit?



Neck


Measure the circumference of your neck under your Adam’s apple. Then add one inch to determine your size.

You should be able to fit two fingers between your neck and your collar.


Sleeves


Your sleeve length is the measurement from the center of your neck to the bottom of your wrist.


Fit Types


Shirts come in classic or slim fits. 

A classic-fit is a fuller cut and is therefore more generous.

A slim-fit will sit closer to the chest and waist.


Canali
Classic Fit
Button-Down Collar
Made in Italy
Ralph Lauren Black Label
Slim Fit
Spread Collar
Made in Italy
Dolce & Gabbana
Slim Fit
Point Collar
Made in Italy

Anatomy of a Shirt



Collars


Point: The most versatile

Spread: 
Originated to accommodate the Windsor Knot. It is a dressier collar. It should always be accompanied by a tie.

Button-Down: 
Secured by two small buttons that should always be buttoned. 


Cuffs


French: 
Requires cuff links and therefore can be accessorized and personalized.

Barrel
: The most traditional buttoned cuff.


French Cuff

Barrel Cuff


Selecting Quality Craftsmanship


A quality shirt will be revealed in the fabric. It will be smooth and have a uniform weave. The buttons should be made from a natural material such as Mother of Pearl. Shirt patterns should line up at the seams. The country of origin is also important when selecting a quality shirt.

Designers to Consider


Quintin Joseph’s suggestions for the best designers to look for when selecting a quality off the rack shirt include: Turnbull & Asser, Kiton, Borrelli, Charvet and Stefano Ricci.

Turnbull and Asser

Made in England. Known for classic, strong fabric, and a three button cuff.

Kiton

Made in Italy. Notable for their amazing fabric, custom stitching and outstanding patterns.

Borrelli

Made in Italy. True artisans. These works of art are made of durable fabrics and reveal excellent craftsmanship.

Charvet

Made in France. Known for traditional patterns, classic fit and lightweight fabrics.

Stefano Ricci

Made in Italy. Outstanding attributes include soft fabric, beautiful patterns and remarkable cuffs and collars.

If you have any questions, concerns or comments regarding the content of this or any other article, kindly contact me as I would be happy to speak with you.