Four Ways to Determine a Quality Suit

A good suit can make you look and feel amazing.  It can arm you with confidence and give you an edge. When buying a suit consider canvas, details, designer and cost to know you are adding quality and style to your wardrobe. 


A quality jacket will have a full canvas layer. Cheaply made suits have a lining that is glued or fused.  The benefit of a fully canvassed jacket is that the fabric will drape naturally. When the lining is glued, the garment will appear stiff and will move in an unnatural way. A half canvassed jacket will be somewhat more affordable, and can still have the benefits of a canvassed jacket.

To tell if a jacket is full canvas, pinch the layers of fabric between the button holes. You should feel three layers. If you feel two layers, the jacket is half canvas. One layer means the lining is glued or fused.


The S number on the label of a wool suit refers to the fineness of the wool as measured in micrometers. The higher the number, the finer the fabric. An example might be a Super 120's wool suit. Higher thread counts are generally softer to the touch. 

To gauge the quality of a suit fabric you can clench the sleeve and hold it for a few seconds. When released, the fabric should bounce back to its natural shape quickly.

Buttons should not be made of plastic. Natural materials such as tortoise, buffalo horn or Mother of Pearl are indicators of quality. Look for details such as hand stitching around the lapel or button holes and beautiful jacket interiors.


What's in a name? Certain designers are renowned for their quality craftsmanship. A Kiton suit for instance requires 25 to 50 hours of handiwork. There is a level of excellence and pride that is expected from particular design houses that you can count on. Look at labels.

Where was the suit made? Countries such as Italy and Switzerland are known for quality craftsmanship.


Sometimes you do get what you pay for. Quality isn't cheap. Luxury clothiers source the best materials from around the globe to construct a high-end suit. Fine fabrics, hand stitching, rich colors and patterns, natural fibers such as wool, silk, and Mother of Pearl require you spend more. This will be reflected in the way you look and feel. A good suit is an investment piece.

Quintin Joseph suggests:

Etro Navy Suit
Made in Italy

Tom Ford Blue Suit
Made in Switzerland

Ermenegildo Zegna Navy Couture Suit
Made in Switzerland

Thom Browne Silver Stripe Suit
Hand Made in the USA

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